The Hyundai Getz rear door glass installation is not the most challenging installation we have posted to date. However, we thought it would be a good basic install to demonstrate to trainees and DIYers.
Most modern basic models use these same principles, so this installation could be useful for many vehicles. Especially other models in the Hyundai range.
This particular Hyundai Getz is a 2008 Hatch model and the install is for a Right Hand Rear Door Window.
Hyundai Getz Hatch
Ok, first off the door panel needs to come off. Pretty straight forward on the Hyundai Getz. The trick is to look around the edge of the door panel for any screws holding the door panel on. Screws on the Hyundai Getz are located behind cover caps, so arm yourself with a Philips screw driver and a pick tool.
Remove cover cap and screw on both upper and lower
Remove the cover caps on the outer edge of the door panel to reveal a Philips Head Screw, then remove the screw. There are three of these in all, an upper (see image) and a lower just below this one. There is also one another on the opposite (inside edge) of the door panel.
Pick open the screw cover and remove screw
Now to remove the door release/lock. Pick open the cover cap and remove the Philips Screw. You will then need to release the blue clips holding the door locking/opening mechanism in place. Just unclip them from the metal rods that look like coat hanger wires. They unclip by swinging them towards you, then you can lift them up and out of the locator holes in the door latch. Once removed you can completely remove the door latch.
You will find the last screw hidden inside the door handle in the middle of the door. Just next to the electric window switch. It’s not too difficult to find it, most door trims have a fixing in this location.
Leaver door panel from gap at the bottom first
Lever the door panel off starting from the bottom. This rule goes for most door panels. It easy with the Hyundai Getz as there is a gap in the panel to put you tool in. You can use a door release tool, or screw driver if you do not have one.
The trick is to quickly jerk the panel. This is because the plastic barbed clips release better if quickly pulled. Slowly prying the panel often results in broken clips. Once the bottom is released enough to get both hands behind the panel you can then pull the rest of the panel away from the clip fixings. Again do this with a quick jerk, rather than a slow and steady pull.
Now the door panel is almost off, it should now only be held on from the top were it hangs onto the door. Just lift the door panel in an upwards motion and it should come free. Important! take care here as you will still have to remove the electric widow connection. Not a big deal, just a standard connector block. See the image below.
Disconnect the electric window connector
Vacuum all of the glass out of the door and remove all glass out of the the door frames and guides. We use our own hand made glass vacuum attachment. If you have not made one these yet, you should do. It will save you time like no other tool.
Glass/Windscreen Vacuum Tool
Now that the door trim is removed, peel back the plastic weather cover and inside the door you will discover the door channel. It may have fallen off the regulator into the bottom of the door. Take it out and remove the old wedge rubber and glass. You can do this with a thin flat head screw driver, or Snap On brand hook tool. (The Snap On is thinner than your average hook tool). See image below.
Remove the old wedge rubber
Once removed clean out the channel with a brush and activate with glass prep so its ready for adhesive. While your have the activator out you can also activate the bottom of the glass too. Activating the glass will help the surfaces bond better.
Right, now that we have prepared the door channel we can get the door ready to receive the replacement window. To do this we have to remove more of the door bits. First remove the outside weather strip, removing this gives you a bit more freedom to insert the window without obstruction.
Remove the external weather strip
You then need to remove the rear section of the door frame. This has to be done on most rear window installations as the window is a square like shape. Unlike a front window that is more of a curved scalene triangle shape, the rear window is not as easily inserted into the window guides.
I know there will be some techs out there who insist that there is no need to remove the frame section and if you you can install the window without causing a problem then that’s fine too. Most windscreen technicians have their own way of doing things based on their experience and as long as the job is not compromised then we don’t object. However, for the sake of 2 bolts and one screw you will make your life a lot simpler by removing the frame section.
Just remove the two 10mm bolts show in the image and there is a sneaky Philips Screw behind the mould on the quarter window.
Remove the two 10mm bolts
Remove Philips Screw behind the rubber seal
Once removed then you can remove the door frame/window guide.
Now install the window by placing it in the front window guide to hold it steady. If you regulate the arm down to the bottom you can rest the window on the regulator arm. Important! Be careful if you do as you don’t want to wind the window up by mistake and risk breaking the glass.
Rest glass on window regulator arm
At this point you can refit the door frame/window guide. Do this without the window guide rubber inserted, it’s much easier. Once you have fixed the frame back in place you can work the rubber back into the guide with the help of some silicone spray in the guide. Get some of this stuff and carry it at all times, it’s priceless.
Ok were on the home straight now. Take the door channel and pump it full of Adhesive. Service 8® uses Sika Drive. DIYer may find this products difficult to come by. However, Bunnings do sell some Sika Adhesives that will probably do the job too. Just don’t use silicone, it will not hold.
Pump adhesive into door channel
Lift the window up slightly and place the channel onto its roller. Next push the window back down firmly into the adhesive. At this point its important to insure the channel is fixed onto the right spot (left/right) on the glass. If it’s not central it will fall off the roller wheel when regulated up and down.
Slowly regulate the window up and down to be sure the channel is in the right spot. Adjust if necessary. Apply pressure with you hand on the top of the glass when regulating down to prevent the glass from coming out of the channel.
Push window down into the adhesive in the channel
That’s all. Refit all the panels in reverse order.
This installation should take an experienced technician no more than 40 minutes. Perhaps longer for a trainees or DIYer.